The magic of heat pressing — the pleat finishing

There are several ways to make unique textures on fabric, pleating must be a special one!

With thermoplastic yarn, the flat fabric can turn into a 3D structure after heat pressing.

Usually, it’s said that the composition of polyester must be over 70% for the better effect. Acetate(diacetate) is also suitable for the pleat finishing. 

The pleat finishing machine

There are several types of machines that can do the pleating magic with the fabric.

↓This is one of the machines. Thin paper will be put under the fabric when the finishing is conducted. 

↓Here is a short video which we can take a glance at how the machine works!

The exhibit “Focus on STRETCH PLEATS ”

In the exhibit “Focus on STRETCH PLEATS ” held by ISSEY MIYAKE at the art gallery 21_21 DESIGN SIGHT, we can see many samples of different pleats and some experimental works.

↑After pleating in 2 different directions, the clothes turned into the left one.

↑The exhibit also focuses on the unit of a pleat and the process of how it moves.

↑Some experimental works.

Yarns recommended for pleat finishing

In MONTELUCE, there are 4 yarns recommended to conduct the pleat finishing.

One is ALLONGE 1/52, composed of ramie and polyester, the yarn is designed as a fine yarn count which is impossible for the normal ramie yarn. Also, the polyester makes the yarn light and much easier to knit in the season with lower humidity. The ramie gives the yarn a little bit of firm which is easily making the 3D shape in fabric.

VALLONE 1/55 is a yarn familiar to ALLONGE. We change the ramie into cotton which gives the yarn a more gentle feeling.

There are 2 acetate yarns which are fine to conduct the pleat finishing.

SOIL 1/34 is finer with beautiful luster while MATT SOIL 1/26 is the dull one with an elegant appearance.

Pleats can be annoying if you want your outfit with a flat and clean surface. However, pleats also create unlimited possibilities which can give you various wearing experiences!

See you next time!