Exploring Jacquard Knitting Techniques

In this article, we will provide a detailed explanation of jacquard knitting.

Single Jacquard Stitch(Fairisle)

Also known as Fairisle or Float Jacquard, this technique involves knitting one course with one yarn on the front side, while the other yarn is carried to the back and floats, moving horizontally. While this method ensures clear colors since the back yarn doesn’t show on the front, it may result in insufficient expansion and contraction due to the yarn crossing at the back. There are limitations on the pattern, typically resulting in a regular petite design, due to the need to manage the float of the back yarn. The allowable range for the floating length of the ordinary thread is approximately 1 inch (2.54 cm). Moreover, to address the weak points of the single jacquard edition, the crossover of the back thread is knitted every few stitches, with the crossover being stopped.

This thread crossover can also serve as a design element.

Recommended products:

• Sweaters
• Jackets
• Accessories

As described above,

How does it look? By daring to showcase the crossover of this thread, it transforms into a stylish hat with a unique flair.

Allowing the threads to cross like this on the cuffs or in certain areas can also create a fashionable look.

*As a side note, while many people opt for cowichan sweaters during winter, some may mistake them for single jacquard. However, cow chin sweaters utilize a different technique called cowichan knitting, where the thread is wrapped around the back. If you come across one in stores, be sure to check it out!

All needle Jacquard Stitch

All needle jacquard knitting differs from single jacquard in that it does not have specific pattern restrictions. However, because the back thread can show through on the front side, the front may appear muddy depending on the color used, requiring careful consideration of color combinations. There are two types of back fabrics: “moss stitch” and “all needles”.

The double jacquard in the photo is woven with a moss stitch. It is interesting to see through and match with thin thread and thick thread.

Recommended products,

• Jacket
• sweater

It is particularly recommended for jackets due to the firmness of the knitted fabric. However, when folding back the collar, it’s advisable to use a fawn or full needle handle. You may consider knitting the collar plain.

Tubular Jacquard Stitch

Tubular jacquard knitting, unlike the single jacquard, there are no particular restrictions on the pattern. A method of knitting the whole into a bag and reversing the front thread and the back thread to create a pattern. Since the front and back have the same pattern, it can be used in a reversible style. It is common to use two colors, and the back thread does not crack, so the color comes out clearly.

The pattern is beautifully reversible, making it suitable for reversible designs, etc. In fact, by using elastic jacquard thread for knitting this bag, you can create texture and produce a very intriguing knitted fabric. If you replace the beige section with elastic thread in the photo, the blue section will puff up. As a result, knitted fabrics allow for a wide range of expressions, from elegant to avant-garde.

Recommended product

• Zip-up blouson
• coat
• sweater

As explained above, reversible use is possible.

Therefore, not only the blouson but also the coat and the back have a beautiful pattern, so it will not get dirty when the collar is turned back.

Blister Jacquard Stitch

The blister jacquard has a tubular shaped handle. One of the threads is a stretchable thread and the handle is raised. Blister knitting makes the pattern stand out by using elastic yarn. At first glance, it looks like a bag jacquard, but the whole is not a bag, and as mentioned above, only the handle is tubular shaped.

Can you see that only the orange part is bulging? This part alone forms a bag shape.

Recommended products

• sweater
• Jacket

Recommended for when you want to create a fuller product. It will result in an interesting knit that stands out a bit.

Can you notice how the lines bulge vertically? This is the distinctive appearance of a blister jacquard.